How to save photos after processing in Lightroom. How to export photos from Lightroom

Updated 11/07/2019 Views 34640 76 comments

I've reached the last article related to photography, hurray! There are a lot of holivars on the Internet on the topic of processing: both regarding what it should/shouldn’t be done, and regarding how exactly to do it. My view on this topic is based on what result I personally want to get and at what cost. Let me clarify: first of all, I shoot for a blog and for my family archive, that is, I do not directly earn a living from photographs. Plus, I can’t spend too much time on them, otherwise I won’t have time to work; after all, I have to process a lot of photos. I publish 2-3 articles a week on my website, each with about 20-40 photos. On the other hand, I also cannot release completely unprocessed ones, they are faded (because RAW), there are often too bright or too dark areas, etc., and I myself don’t like such photos. That is, it would probably be possible to post any, but this is not my option.

All parts of my FAQ for beginner photographers

How I process photos in Lightroom

Thus, I am a supporter of shallow processing due to the lack of motivation to spend a lot of time on it, and I don’t see much difference for myself yet. Of course, occasionally I can conjure a little longer, but this “masterpiece” still has nowhere to go. Now I do all the processing in Lightroom, and I’ve already forgotten when I used other programs. So, if you are comfortable with Photoshop and prefer to process photos quite heavily, then you are unlikely to find anything worthwhile in this post :)

Like I said, I do all the editing in Lightroom and it's pretty simple. In fact, I just crop and level the horizon, pull out the shadows and darken the highlights, add color and sharpness.

Importing photos and presets

I insert the flash drive from the camera into the card reader and import the photo and transfer it to external hard disk. I’ll write about storing photos below. When importing, I use pre-created presets: and . Now I only use the latter (I have a Sony A6500), it has more settings for my camera and the way I shoot. There are a couple more for the phone and a second camera.

But the presets are very similar, they differ slightly only in the settings for shadows, highlights and exposure, and I constantly adjust them, because either my opinion changes, or once again I try to adjust the settings to most photos in order to process them less. Some of the repeating settings are: Clarity +25, Vibrance +25, Sharpening +60, Noise Reduction Luminance +65, Enable Lens Correction. The latter is quite important, as it adjusts the photo (mainly geometric distortions are removed) to your lens. But this is only if Lightroom knows your camera. For example, for the Canon G7xm2 I then have to manually select something similar to it.

Regarding presets, I want to say right away that there is no right or wrong here. Well, if we talk about amateurs, everything is different for pros, although they may also have a special author’s style. Therefore, you can create a preset for yourself with any settings you like, and it will be correct. After all, the main thing is that it suits you, you process them simply because “that’s how I see it.” Here, of course, you can argue, I don’t insist :) It’s never too late to read about professional processing, how gurus suggest using this or that setting, and change your presets.

I don’t rename the files, I leave them as they are.

Photo thinning

The next step after import and before processing is thinning. I usually delete: photos that are blurry, duplicates (when about 20 photos of the same object were taken), all photos with defects (too dark, too overexposed, etc.), just photos that I don’t like. Sometimes I can leave it with a defect if there is nothing like that, but the photo is really necessary.

But in general, after a couple of years of photography, I began to spend much less time on thinning and thinning out less carefully, at first I left almost 50% somewhere. It’s easier to replace hard drives with more capacious ones and buy new ones than to sit for several days and thin out. Moreover, my archive is not growing that fast. Plus, more than once there has already been such a moment that suddenly it was necessary deleted photo, albeit defective.

Thinning also happens in Lightroom, I mark the photo as Rejected with the X key, then I delete all those marked at once.

Framing and leveling the horizon

At first I did the framing very often, then I apparently got my bearings and built a normal composition already at the photography stage. In the article I said that I use the rule of thirds, so when framing, I use it in the same way. Not fanatical.

White balance

Since I always photograph with automatic white balance, I adjust it in the program by eye using the Temp and Tint levers. I mostly use the first one, the second less often. Sometimes you can use Auto to get Lightroom's opinion. By the way, it is difficult to correct colors on regular monitors, because they are not calibrated, and the matrices themselves have poor color rendering. That is, you will do as you see fit, but other users will see everything completely differently.

Now I have Macbook Pro 15″ with Retina screen. I consider it, of course, not a reference, but very good in terms of color rendition. Also, 15 inches of double resolution is quite enough for me for photo processing.

Pulling out shadows and darkening highlights

Since many photographs have some problems with dynamic range, processing can reduce them. To do this, I lighten the shadows with the Shadows lever (move it to plus), then darken the too bright areas of the Highlights (move it to minus). I adjust the resulting result Exposure (plus or minus, depending on the situation) and often also adjust White and Blacks. Oh, and I almost forgot, I add Contrast, because when lightening the shadows it is lost, and occasionally I add Clarity (up to 50), increasing the micro-contrast. Although usually the contrast and micro-contrast are immediately set by the preset when importing to the fixed values ​​I need (+10 and +25, respectively).

I personally prefer photos with micro-contrast rather than high-contrast or sharpened photos. That's why I sometimes even turn Shadows up a lot, and then increase Clarity. How watchable it is for you is up to you to decide. Well, I often create contrast not using Contrast, but using White and Blacks, this way it’s possible to adjust it more accurately, because it’s adjustable on “both sides.”

Adding Color

Previously, I used 2 resets: Blue Sky 0.5 (), or Skin toning lighter (). The first preset was spied on by Sergey Dolya (it was called Matts Blue Sky 1), but I remade it a little, reducing the parameter changes by half. I don’t remember where I downloaded the second one. So, now Blue Sky 0.5 is already “hardwired” into the preset when importing, so I have reduced my processing steps a little more.

Blue Sky is needed to increase the blueness of the sky, but for this it should not be too overexposed (otherwise it will be useless), and to increase the saturation of yellow and orange colors. It is important to mention that sometimes you need to set Luminance for the blue color back to zero, otherwise the blue will not come out natural.

Skin toning changes the balance of light, making the skin color more similar to the real one. But the truth is that everything around also changes balance, not just the skin. So let's say, for lovers of warm shades and lamp-like qualities.

Sharpening and noise reduction

Since all the photos are either posted on a blog or on Instagram, that is, the photos will be viewed only from the screen, and not in maximum resolution, but about 1000 px in width, the sharpness can be painlessly raised in the program. My sharpness is also set by a preset during import (+60). Depending on the photo, I may lower the Sharpening values ​​to avoid over-sharpening or noise. Actually, noise neutralization also occurs during import and then I rarely touch the Luminance lever (+65). Basically, you have to reduce Sharpening and Luminance for jpegs received from a point-and-shoot camera or smartphone.

And again I’ll mention the Clarity tool here. In fact, it also makes the photo sharper.

Using Additional Tools

Most often, of all the ones presented, I use a gradient filter to lighten/darken a part of a photo, or change the contrast or white balance of a certain part of a photo. Sometimes it's better to use a brush instead, which is more convenient when you need to change a complex area, for example, a face where you need to remove the Clarity (otherwise it will be too structured). IN latest versions In Lightroom, these tools have much more settings; you can change anything you want in the selected area.

I use the stamp less often to remove some debris from the photo.

Export

After I have processed the image, I check the flag (Set Flag -> Flagged) with the P key. This will allow, after I am done with all the images, to display only them using the filter (Filter by flag -> Flagged only), view once again only on processed images and export them all en masse. For each article, I usually process about 20-40 photos.

I have already created a special preset for export. In it, the folder for export, the size of the exported jpeg (2048×2048), its quality (75%), sharpness during export (High), saving meta data, watermark (can be configured and saved as a preset) are selected. For Instagram I make the quality 100%, I don’t add a watermark.

End result

In fact, in the example given above there was some attempt to expand the dynamic range (if you expand it too much, it will be pseudo-HDR). Naturally, it is not always necessary to carry out exactly such manipulations with photographs, but usually they are very similar: adjusting the blue/yellow balance, brightening shadows, darkening bright areas, increasing contrast. It’s just that when there is not such a big difference between the dark and light areas, then the levers will not need to be moved to extreme positions, but just a little bit and this is done, of course, by eye.

Why Lightroom

It's simple, it just happened. I tried and liked this program. It's great for correcting photos rather than deeply editing them. Here everything is done exactly for this purpose, all the tools are there. Plus, I have my entire photo library in it, and I can quickly find everything I need: there are a bunch of different filters, you can tag photos (I really don’t use this at all).

There are plenty of analogues, but I don’t want to try anything yet, everything suits me.

About resizing in WordPress

I can’t help but mention this thing that can be important for bloggers on the WordPress platform. I upload photos on my blog that are 2048px wide, but in the post they are displayed at 800px (full size by clicking, the photo is shown in the lightbox). If you upload full-size photos on your blog, and the engine itself resizes them to the size you need, then this is not a good idea, unless, of course, quality is important to you. The fact is that the built-in resize will significantly spoil the sharpness, the photos will turn out blurry. However, few visitors will notice this, unless of course you have a photographer’s portfolio offering your services. Well, there may not be enough space on the hosting, since a full-size JPG can easily take up 10 megabytes.

As an option, use the Sharpen Resized Images plugin, it will add sharpness when resizing, but it also does it quite roughly.

How do I store photos

All photos, videos and other files are stored on an external Seagate 4TB portable hard drive because they do not fit on a laptop drive. This disc I always have it with me. The photo archive now takes up about 1.5 TB (as of 2017), which is actually not very much if you are a photographer or blogger and shoot a lot. The file structure is shown in the screenshot below. As a rule, there is a separate folder for each trip, inside of which there are 2-3 more folders for each camera. But if the trip is long and to different cities, then each city also has its own folder.

The folders have this structure: Year/Month_Date_Event Name/Shooting Device. The directory structure in Lightroom is exactly the same. And what’s convenient is that you can put a photo in any folder on the disk, and then synchronize this folder in Lightroom, and the photo will appear in the program. For me, such a structure is quite convenient for storage, and does not take additional time for cataloging; once done, that’s all. Nowadays there is simply a tendency to lump everything into one pile, and only then the program itself distributes the photos according to different criteria. I like this option less.

I store the photos in originals, that is, in RAW, so that I can make what I need from the photo at any time. And in Lightroom, in my settings, I have the option to save all photo information to XMP files. After all, when RAW processing nothing happens to the file itself; all information about completed actions is stored in the catalog file. So XMP is a duplicate of information for each photo, it weighs quite a bit, so the total volume does not increase much. Thanks to XMP files, it is easier to transfer photos to other computers and this is a kind of protection against the fact that something happens to the catalog file; there have already been precedents, it was necessary to delete it.

Where to backup photos

In addition to how to store photos, it is important where else to backup them. First you need to remember the golden rule that there should be 2 backups. As I already said, all my photos are stored on an external hard drive, that is, this is the main database, and I still need to make 2 backups (copies) to it. Your main base can be on a hard laptop, it’s more convenient.

I make the first backup to another external one hard drive. About once every 3 months (and before each trip) I do full copy from one external (main) to the second (backup). So that it doesn’t take time, I set it to copy at night, and in the morning everything is ready. Second hard I don’t take the drive on trips, which means the risk of ruining it is minimal.

I make the second backup to the cloud from the main hard drive, specifying the folder with the database as the folder for the cloud. While I'm using cloud service Mail.RU, because in 2014 they had a promotion and they gave 1TB for life. But this space is no longer enough for me, plus I don’t like the download speed, and the fact that the storage is not very reliable, there was already a case when they deleted some of my files. Therefore, I want to switch to, which is now considered the most functional and safe. There is a good paid tariff without space restrictions. In principle, I already use it, I store important files, but for now it’s a free plan.

And one more important point, it seems to me. Since on all my trips I take only one external hard drive, where the main database is stored, there is a risk of ruining it. This is not scary, since a copy is kept at home, but you can lose photos from current trips if they are constantly transferred from the flash drive to the main drive. So, whenever possible, I leave all the files on the flash drive, rather than deleting them immediately after transferring them to the hard drive. Yes, for this you need a larger volume of flash drives (or several pieces) so that they are enough for the entire trip, but there is a guarantee. Also, if on the trip there is good internet in the hotel, then the files also fly to the cloud.

P.S. That's all I can tell you about photo processing and storage. Not a lot, but what is there :)

Life hack #1 - how to buy good insurance

Choosing insurance now is incredibly difficult, so to help all travelers. To do this, I constantly monitor forums, study insurance contracts and use insurance myself.

If you follow the work of some photographers, you may have noticed that each of them has their own style. But this does not mean that they try to make each of their photographs similar to the previous one. An example of such photographers would be club photographers.

At first glance, the work of a club photographer may seem interesting and fun (after all, he works in an entertainment place), but imagine what it’s like to process hundreds, thousands of photographs? And you need to submit the work quickly. Comes to our aid.

Now, we have processed one photo, how to process the rest? I suggest you create your own preset!

Select a photo that you like and based on which you want to make a preset. Attention, you must be in “mode” Corrections”.

Have you chosen? Now let's start saving the preset. Method create a preset two, they are no different, but for you, dear readers, I will show two at once. Moreover, the differences will be only in one step.

Step 1.1. In the menu we look for the section “ Corrections” and in the submenu “ New preset...”

Step 1.2. Or you can use the “+” button in the list of presets.

Step 2. In the window that appears in front of us, the program will offer to select the settings that you want to include in the preset. And also choose a name for the future preset.

Step 3. After saving the preset, it will appear in the “ User Presets”.

And we learned save your preset in lightroom.

Now you can use your preset on other photos. But, you must understand that in one photo it can look perfect, but in another it can look just terrible. Shooting conditions are different, and it is worth using it only for the same photo shoot, and then most likely you will have to adjust each photo. But, this is better than processing a photo from scratch for each frame.

Users are probably used to the usual location of the Save button in apps. Almost every program has a save as command. The respected company Adobe Systems has distinguished itself with a non-standard approach to saving photos. Therefore, many users often have a question about how to save photos in Lightroom. Instead of complaining about Adobe Systems, you can try to understand the sequence of actions to complete this task.

Photos: export

First, let's talk about how export is carried out in Lightroom. Usually the results of creativity in others computer programs can be immediately saved as files. In Adobe Lightroom you have to export pictures to files. Of course, this sounds somewhat unusual. It's worth trying to ask a friend or colleague who has never used the program about how to save a photo in Lightroom and which command to choose to do so. In response, you can only hear the word save. Why is it not in this application? Seems like easy to understand terms in professional programs are not used.

Sorting the desired photos

First, you need to select the pictures you want to export in JPEG, TIFF, DNG and PSD formats. This can be done in the film panel or in the grid view of the special Library module by pressing the Cmd key (on Macintosh). IN Windows system you should use the Ctrl key. You need to click on each of the pictures you want to export one by one.

Export Dialog Box

In the Library module, click on the Export button, which is located in the lower right corner on the left side of the side panels. When using the film panel, you must press Cmd+Shift+E (on Macintosh) to select photos in another module. On Windows, use the combination Ctrl+Shift+E. After completing this action, the export dialog box will appear. The user needs to change the settings there. After that, he will be able to save the photo in Lightroom.

Presets area

On the left side of the export dialog box is the Preset sphere. It lists all the presets available in Lightroom, as well as user-created and saved settings. To fill in some fields standard settings to export images to JPEG format with simultaneous recording to disk, you should take the Burn Full-Sized JPEGs setting as a model.

Preset “Record full-size JPEG photos”

She has her own purpose. This preset will serve as a starting point for further adjustment in the export dialog box to the desired values ​​that will be needed when saving images to files in the required format and in a specific location. The parameters you set will be saved as a special preset. As a result, a novice user who wants to learn how to save photos in Lightroom will avoid repeating the same steps each time they export images. If you want to save JPEG image files not on disk, but in a directory on your computer, then you should click, while holding down the mouse button, on the icon with geometric shapes (triangles) at the top right in the Export dialog box. This will open a list from which you need to select the Files on Disk option.

Directory selection

Next, you should specify a location to save the photo files in the Export dialog box. First you need to select a separate directory; you can also add pictures to the folder with originals. If you want to save files separately from other images, then you should check the Specific Folder option from the Export That drop-down list. To select a specific folder, you need to click on the Choose button and find it. If required quick access to the exported images, you should save them in a directory on your desktop. By checking the Put in Subfolder checkbox and specifying the folder name, files are stored in an organized manner in one place. If you want to add exported images to the Lightroom catalog, you should check the Add to Lightroom Catalog option.

Renaming files

The next area to master for those who want to learn how to save a photo in Lightroom is File Naming. There are times when the user does not want to rename the exported image file and wants to keep the current name. Then he should select the Filename option from Template and move on to the next area of ​​the dialog box being examined. If you still want to rename the file, then you need to look for some template from the list of built-in options or those created by the user. For example, the sequence is named Foto. By using the Custom Name - Sequence template (adding a sequence number), all files will be named as follows: Foto-1, Foto-2, etc.

Type of exported image

In the File Settings area, you can select the format of the saved file from the Format drop-down list.

When exporting JPEG images, a horizontal Quality slider appears to the right of this list. The file sizes depend on the quality of the saved photos. The 80 mark on the Quality slider guarantees the optimal ratio of photo quality and file size. To transfer an image to a person who does not have the Photoshop Lightroom editor, select sRGB from the Color Space drop-down list.

When specifying other formats for a file, it becomes possible to configure additional options color color and compression ratio.

If desired, you can change the size of the photo in the Image Sizing area. To do this, select the Resize to Fit checkbox and enter the necessary image parameters for export.

Photo correction

In order to increase the sharpness of finished images for printing and display in web galleries, in the Output Sharpening area, select the Sharpen For checkbox. Photos can be displayed on the screen (Screen item) or directly printed, with a choice of matte or glossy paper. The sharpness of the images in these two cases will be different. Due to its high degree of magnification (High), when output to an inkjet printer, the photo will be accurately reflected on paper, while on a computer screen it will be too detailed. Not all photographs are intended for printing. Those that are to be published on the Internet are saved with a standard sharpening level (Standard). This setting can be changed in the Amount drop-down menu.

Removing marks

By checking the Minimize Embedded Metadata checkbox, all existing metadata coming from the user's camera will be excluded from the files. At the same time, personal information, including information about copyright protected by law, will be preserved. When this checkbox is checked, the following option to add built-in keywords from selected images to the Lightroom list will be unavailable.

To overlay your exported images with the copyright information that was entered when you imported the images into Adobe Lightroom, select the Add Copyright Watermark option.

Further commands

In the Post-Processing area, you can specify what should be done with the file after the export procedure is completed. If you select Do Nothing in the After Export drop-down list, it will be saved unchanged in the specified directory. When setting the Open in Adobe Photoshop CS exported file will be opened in Photoshop program. In addition to immediately using saved images in another application, you can select Open in Other Application. Go to Export Actions Folder Now lets you send a photo via email.

Export settings for creating a photo book

Saved images can be used in almost any editor. A photo book is a wonderful gift for friends and family. How to save photos in Lightroom for later design in a brochure?

First you need to select the images you like. Then you need to use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+A. In the export dialog box, you need to select a directory to save photos, you can even create new folder with the name Photobook. In order to user installed The order of the images was “understood” by the editor, you should rename the files so that the names begin with a serial number. It is necessary to sequentially check Rename To, Edit.

Next steps

By placing the cursor in front of the name, you need to select Sequence 001, Insert one by one. You can add custom text. To do this, select the Custom text field and separate it with an underscore. Most photo book editors only work with JPG photos and PNG images. The quality slider should be moved to 90. It is also better to note the traditional sRGB color space.

Next, you should select the size and resolution of the photos. The basic principle is to not make your pictures too small, otherwise the sharpness will be greatly affected. If the exported images are large, they will be reduced automatically in the photobook editor. However, it’s worth at least roughly estimating the size of the pictures in the layout. If the photographs have a huge resolution, then the user should save the reduced pictures with suitable sharpness settings. This will save disk space.

Additional settings

Sharpness options are for inkjet printers and screens. In the case of photo books, printing technologies are different, but this does not mean that photographs do not need sharpening. Usually, sequential settings “matte paper” and “standard” work well. However, they will be superfluous in the case of a female portrait. Therefore, you should try the test photo book printing service. The rest of the settings can be set at your discretion. Next, you need to minimize the metadata and select “Open catalog after export.” How do I save a preset in Lightroom to export layout images? To do this, click on the Export button.

Creating a preset

All specified settings should be saved as a special preset. After completing this task, the user will no longer have to search in bookmarks for an article on how to save a photo in Lightroom, and manually repeat the procedure discussed above every time he needs to export a JPEG file to a computer directory. In order for the preset to be used more effectively, some modifications should be made to it.

Changing a Preset

If you create a separate preset right now, every time you use it, JPEG photos will be saved in the Foto folder. It is better to immediately uncheck the Put in Subfolder checkbox. Then you need to create a new directory on your desktop. Next, you should give it a suitable name, for example JPEG, and click on the Choose button to find it in the list. Then you need to select the newly created directory as a special folder for exporting photos. All JPEG images will be saved there. Therefore, you should select the Ask What to Do item in the Existing Files drop-down list in the event that the program finds files with the same names in this directory.

How to save a preset in Lightroom

In addition, the user may need to rename the files because images named Foto were already saved in the directory during a previous export. In this case, select Filename from the Template drop-down list. The current file names will be saved. Next, you should create a preset from the updated settings by clicking on the Add button at the bottom in the Preset area located in the Export dialog box. The user can give it a name. This should be done in the New Preset dialog box that opens. How to save a preset in Lightroom? You just need to click on the Create button.

Custom Presets

After clicking the Create button, the saved preset will appear in the User Presets section. To export JPEG images using required settings Just click on it. The user may need to make changes to the saved preset, such as clearing the checkbox to install a watermark. To complete this task, click on the set right click mouse (Windows) by selecting Update with Current Settings, or Ctrl-click (Macintosh).

Other preset variations

If the user was able to open the Export dialog box, customize the export of photos according to his needs, and finally learn how to save a photo in Lightroom, then nothing prevents him from creating another preset as a modification of the first one, for example, for subsequent JPEG display -images in web galleries.

To do this, set the resolution to 72 dpi in the special Resolution field. This column is located in the Image Sizing area. Next, select Screen and Sharpen For from the Standard and Amount drop-down lists, respectively. Don’t forget to check the Add Copyright Watermark checkbox, thanks to which the images will be protected from unauthorized use. After making changes, click on the Add button and give the new preset a suitable name.

from Lightroom to your computer using a preset

After creating presets, the user can forget about accessing dialog box export. This way, a lot of time is saved. To export JPEG images, select the required images, and then sequentially select the menu items File, Export with Preset. Next, you need to click on a specific preset. After this, you can safely watch the automatic export of images, carried out without user intervention. Anyone who wants to know how to save photos in Lightroom will agree that it is very simple and convenient!

Andrey Mishachenko: how do you save in LR? FS has a good mode for the web, but is there something similar here? or is it simply quality regulated?

Understanding exporting to Lightroom in general and for the web in particular requires separate articles. Technically, this is not difficult to do through the Export dialog of the program, but why and in what cases to set certain parameters is a much more extensive question than simply listing the fields of this block. I haven't done it yet detailed description, but it will definitely be in the plans.

Let's return to the short dialogue with Andrey.

Gennady Kondratyev: In LR you can set any parameters when exporting to Jeep, including those that are meaningful for the web. I usually make these settings: Resize to fit: Long Edge 800-1000 pixels depending on needs Resolution: 72 pixels per inch Sharpen For: Sreen Amount: Standard ...

Andrey Mishachenko: I’m comparing - under the same conditions for exporting photographs with a resize of up to 900, let’s say, FS beats LR in all respects when saving for “web and devices”... that’s why. Definitely, you need to save it in FS...

My personal experience says something a little different - FS does not make photos better for the web. Well, if you take into account that “Save for web...” in Photoshop only works with one image, but in Lightroom you can save at least a thousand at once... Moreover, for the web it is very advisable to do additional sharpening of the original before saving, so how the sharpness of a photo in such sizes drops quite significantly, and in LR this is done with one tick, but in FS it is much more difficult...

Let’s really compare, especially since it’s easy to do - after all, we all look at the blog on the web...))

Here are screenshots of two settings for saving the same tiff file from Lightroom 3 and Photoshop CS5. I chose a photo that would have rich color, small details, and gradient transitions...

I must say right away that it’s not my computer that is currently temporarily installed, so there are no presets for exporting to LR and PS is Russian...

Lightroom 3 For the purity of the experiment, I turned off the setting here Sharpen For, since in Photoshop to achieve this result you need to use additional settings sharpening before saving to the web.

Photoshop CS5

And here is the result (at first I wanted to not say what and where it came from at all, but then I changed my mind, I don’t want to do fortune-telling, just see what happens):

Lightroom 3

Photoshop CS5

You can compare in the pop-up photo viewing window by clicking on PREV and NEXT on the left and right. What's your opinion? Who is “beating” whom here and according to what parameters?

--------------------
In the comments, there was an opinion that when the quality is reduced to obtain a size of around 250Kb, the jipe ​​from Lightroom becomes indigestible. In Lightroom's Export I checked the box next to Limit File Size To, value 250K and got a file size of 238Kb instead of the 383Kb version from Lightroom above. My opinion is that the result is still at a good level:

And what if Sharpen For put in Satandart, as is needed for web saving, it generally works out well:

I remained unconvinced - and you?

Every beginner learning graphics program Adobe Photoshop Lightroom is faced with the problem of saving already processed photos. And indeed, the Save button familiar from Adobe Photoshop is not here. What to do?

Articles on the topic

To begin with, the images in Lightroom are already saved, because the program uses non-destructive editing. In other words, information about image changes is stored in a directory. This means that we are not talking about saving, but about exporting photographs. That is, in order to get photos in tif or jpeg format, you need to export the images with all the settings made in the program.

Simply execute the “export” command in Lightroom as follows:

In the Lidrary module, select the photos that need to be exported. You can select all photos by pressing the key combination CTRL+A.

Click on the EXPORT button, located next to the IMPORT button. You can select a command through the file menu, or by using the key combination CTRL+SHIFT+E.

A dialog box appeared on the screen. Let's configure the parameters:

You need to make sure that all images are exported, and now you can continue working with the photos. Good luck in mastering Adobe Photoshop Lightroom!

You need to make sure that all images are exported

How to save photos in Lightroom video