Repair of telescopic indoor antenna. Magnitoliya - boomboxes, tape recorders and radio tape recorders!: antenna repair

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Build it yourself simple antenna for fm radio this is a great way to enhance the quality of the received radio signal. First, let's look at replacing the standard antenna with a dipole one.

Most modern radios are equipped with sockets for connecting conventional antennas– both built-in and external telescopic. You can make a high-quality radio antenna without resorting to large expenses; just a one-time visit to a regular hardware store is enough, and, of course, you need to know what you can make a radio antenna from.

Materials for work

Ceramic insulators and elements for their connection. They are necessary to prevent the antenna cable from shorting to adjacent surfaces. You can purchase these devices at any radio market or find them in some abandoned building.
Thin steel wire for connecting insulators.
Roller blocks necessary for fixing the external radio antenna in a tensioned position.
Plug for connecting an antenna.
A two-position switch designed to protect against thunderstorms.
A coil of copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 to 2 millimeters. You can, of course, use steel wire, but copper wire is much more flexible and convenient.

Antenna type

Now let's decide on the type of radio antenna to be assembled. There are three main types of antennas for an FM receiver, suitable for DIY assembly; diagrams of each of them are given below:

Linear antenna
Traveling surface wave antenna
An aperture antenna, that is, an antenna with a reversal.

Instructions on how to make an antenna

The installation of any horizontal type antenna begins with the selection of a support to which we will subsequently attach the insulators. The first support should be on the roof of the house, and for the second you can choose a tree with the appropriate height. We attach the insulators to the racks using steel cables.

The outer part of the antenna should not be pulled too tightly, since when the air temperature drops, the wire shrinks and can break.

Roller blocks are used to reduce vibrations. To use them, you need to fix a small weight on the opposite end of the wire, connecting it to the antenna.

The receiving element of the future antenna must be a single piece made of a single material. If there is no whole piece of wire, then you can combine several elements from a single material by stripping and soldering with tin solder.

The mount for the vertical receiving element of the antenna is a stand that prevents the wire from changing position during strong winds.

If there is very little space to place the antenna, then the design can be modified: we cut the wire into several pieces and connect the end of each of them with molten tin to the cable. The adhesion site must be reliably insulated. Below is a photo homemade antenna, suitable for fm radio.

The best replacement for the catcher would be a homemade indoor antenna. IN in this case the insulators are mounted indoors, as close to the ceiling as possible (this is recommended to improve signal reception), and the wire is pulled horizontally or rolled into a spiral.

Manufacturing of a frame structure resonant antenna

Such antennas are often used by mechanics to receive shortwave signals. For directional signal reception, the antenna is simply turned in the desired direction. Such designs allow you to receive radio signals much more clearly thanks to the magnetic elements.

So, how to make a similar antenna for fm radio at home? First you need to find an aluminum hoop with a diameter of 77 centimeters and a cross-section of 17 millimeters; you can get one at any sporting goods store.

If you still can’t find the hoop, you can use plumbing pipes made of plastic and metal, or a copper pipe with a diameter of 1.6 cm.

The assembly sequence of this design is extremely simple:

We solder the central core, winding and a piece of coaxial cable to the contacts of the capacitor with variable capacitance.
We solder the other end of the cable, the central core and the winding to an aluminum hoop. You can also use a car clamp, which must first be cleaned at the mating site.
The dimensions of the structural elements are calculated so that the length of the frame, in this case the hoop, is five times the length of the connection loop.
From one end of the cable and from the central core, remove the insulation layer by about one centimeter.
We remove the insulation in the middle of the cable, having previously removed 5 millimeters from it in each direction. Then we remove the cable braid, since the above actions will lead to its breaking.
We adjust the range of our radio receiver so that the design has a resonance of 5-22 MHz. With a different capacitor value, the parameters of the receiving and transmitting device can be changed.
Depending on the desired received range, you can change the frame parameters. So, for receiving low frequencies we select the diameter of the hoop within one to one and a half meters, and for receiving high frequencies– 70 centimeters.

These simple rules will allow you to build a device capable of operating in different ranges.

Conclusions

We have presented to your attention the simplest and most popular ideas and drawings of antennas for fm radio, suitable for DIY assembly. Most of these designs are extremely simple to install and operate, and will allow you to easily solve many everyday problems.

Photo of antenna for fm radio

Car antennas have long been considered an ordinary accessory, but such equipment often breaks down and is often simply stolen. Factory models are quite expensive, and it is often difficult to find a suitable one. However, you can make auto antennas for your radio with your own hands. The process is simple, but requires some professional skills.

The range of devices in stores is very large. Based on their intended purpose, this technique is divided into the following types:

Active antennas for car radios, when signal reception comes with a built-in amplifier. They are considered very powerful. Great for picking up signals over long distances.
Passive models. They work without amplifiers. They are considered simpler, they are much easier to do yourself. It is recommended to install such devices if car radios are used only in the outskirts of the city.

Antennas are also classified according to installation method. There are internal and external antennas:

Internal. They are installed in car interiors. This installation method is suitable for active models.
External. They are located outside car bodies. This installation is more suitable for passive devices. At the same time, the low power of the equipment is somehow compensated for.

To make an antenna for a car radio with your own hands, you need to take into account the operating principles of the signal catcher, determine the length of the device, its location, and the degree of complexity of the entire structure.

Conventional antennas for cars are quarter-wave vibrators that are grounded to the car body. Such devices can only be mounted vertically, and reach a length of 2.5 m. For antennas of standard car radios, these parameters are considered redundant.

That is why self-made external antennas for car radios are used to replace outdated oversized devices. To hear stable radio signals in the popular range, it is enough to use pin devices with a length of 10 to 20 cm.

In addition to significant cost savings, there are a number of advantages in using such technology. The following advantages are highlighted:

A self-made design can be adjusted to fit perfectly different models cars.
There will be no problem with the installation height for receiving radio signals.
Installing a homemade device is much easier than factory-made analogues.
You can improve the quality of signal reception with proper installation, as opposed to using purchased antennas.

It is worth noting that you can start designing yourself if you have skills in working with electrical engineering; otherwise, it is better to use the services of professionals or use store-bought analogues.

Do with my own hands You can use both inactive and active (with amplifier) devices. The production technology consists of several stages:

preparing the necessary tools;
direct assembly;
fastenings to the machine body;
connections.

Assembling different types of antennas for a radio with your own hands differs significantly even in the selection of necessary tools.

Passive antennas without an amplifier are considered quite simple in design. To create such a device, you will need:

copper wire (diameter from 1.5-2 mm);
high quality nut;
good file;
screwdriver;
thermal glue (can be replaced with heat shrink tube);
screw (diameter M5);
lock-nut.

Assembly is carried out in stages. To do this:

To give the installation an aesthetic appearance, a film is glued onto it, treated with a primer, and painted. The passive device is ready.

Creating an active fixture view

A special feature of this technique is the presence of equipment that enhances signal reception. When creating internal active installations, frame structures are used. This requires the following tools:

copper wire, always with insulation (diameter - 2 mm);
home amplifier (a television device will do);
high-quality soldering iron;
a connector that is suitable for a radio;
good nippers;
glue.

An amplifier housing designed for a regular home antenna is often used as the basic basis for the device. Solder a wire to it, which, in turn, will connect to the radio. This is necessary for the amplifier to receive and transmit signals.

The antenna plug is connected to the socket, and a connector is mounted at the other end of the wire. The power cable for the amplifier in car radios is considered the control cable; it is painted blue.

An active type receiver is mounted on the roof of the car so that signals are well received. To do this, two holes are drilled in the housing - mounting and auxiliary. The antenna wire is laid around the perimeter of the driver's door, fixed with glue. After installation on the roof of the car, attach the (side) cable to the rack and carefully connect it to the car radio.

Installation and connection features

Traditionally, active types of antennas for radios are installed on windshields in the upper right corners or behind rear-view mirrors. Passive installations for receiving signals are placed on car bodies, usually mounted on roofs.

Any antenna should be mounted only on a clean surface. For installation, use glue or masking tape, bolts, nuts, lock nuts for grounding, and a drill suitable for the diameter of the antenna wire. The mounting area must be degreased with a special cleaner.

Fix the devices with glue or masking tape. After installation, wires are laid from the antenna to the radio. This is done either around the perimeter of car doors or windows, or directly around the interior through special openings.

In an ordinary design car antenna there are three wires:

Most often, the second wire is combined with the third; by connecting the power, the contact function is activated, and the antenna begins to receive the signal.

It is important to choose the right location for installing the antenna. A car body can be both a kind of indicator of improved signal reception quality and an interference. The best place for mounting is the center of the roof.

There should be no foreign metal objects near the catcher. It is better to purchase combined antennas for receiving various communication signals ready-made.

The installation must be protected as much as possible from the influence of the external environment so that contacts do not oxidize and parts of the entire structure do not rust.

Homemade antenna - effective way saving money, improving the quality of signal reception, the possibility of technical modification of the radio in your own car.

I already wrote about repairing antennas once; I was talking about restoring the tip of the antenna. But there are worse cases, when there is nothing to hook this tip to, that is, entire antenna links are missing. In fact, they may say that there is another problem: why repair the antenna when you can buy a new one and install it instead of the defective one.
Well first of all, try to find these antennas first, something I'm wondering lately I don't see them on sale at all.
Secondly, if you find it, then most likely it will be a Chinese remake with thin-walled tubes, which are a couple of trifles to break, pulled out and pushed in incorrectly, and it breaks.
Thirdly, even if you buy an antenna, it will be fastest with short links, but many old radios were equipped with antennas with very long links. Of course, you can move the short links apart, but if you think like this, then you can allow the installation of half of the TV horns or even screw the wire in altogether. But I prefer to have an antenna as close as possible to the original one.
Well, I got it for repairs Sanyo, it originally had a long three-link antenna, the third, thinnest link was broken off right under the spine, and the spine itself was hidden in the depths of the middle link.

In general, the third link should have been extended to this distance, and the second should protrude just a couple of millimeters from the thickest link when folded. But in this case, the antenna will not reach all the way and therefore will dangle.

When I replace a broken antenna with a working one, I don’t throw away the old one. Sometimes she may be needed as a donor.

I selected a tube of suitable diameter, which will serve as the third link in the repaired antenna. However, despite the fact that the tube fits perfectly into the antenna from the outside, there is no way to install it in the antenna so that it does not pop out later when unfolded, so without complete disassembly Antennas are indispensable.
To do this, you first need to separate the shank. The best option for this is to saw the tube along the ring farthest from the shank. You won't be able to flare it, don't waste your time.

Unfortunately, after this the thickest link will be 5-6 mm shorter, a sacrifice you will have to accept. There will be a piece of tubing left on the shank that will have to be removed.

The easiest way to clean the shank is with wire cutters, holding it by the flat part with pliers.

Sometimes the flat part of the shank is bent. It should be straightened with caution, because it can be broken off at once. It's such a fragile metal. If the bend is not very strong, then it is better not to touch it.

Using a thin screwdriver or a thin knitting needle, push the thinner one out of the thicker tube, try not to lose the brass gaskets that prevent the antenna links from popping out. They will still be useful to you during assembly.

Be sure to push out the remnants of the broken one from the last intact link; firstly, this piece will interfere with installing a new link, and secondly, you will need its brass spacers if you do not have extra ones in stock.

The antenna is assembled in the reverse order, starting from the thinnest link. Install brass gaskets so that their protrusions fit into the holes on the sides of the tube.

In general, the task is not difficult, especially for a three-link antenna. There are short multi-link ones, those are more hassle.

Now you need to insert the shank and secure it. You can roll the shank in the tube, but at home, rolling may not be very aesthetically pleasing. How will you roll it, other than wire cutters? In addition, the antenna may dangle on the shank if you have not rolled it tightly enough.
Some people, as I was told, glue it. For me, this is wrong, glue is a dielectric and it is not a fact that somewhere you will necessarily have contact through metal, an example of cold soldering, when the wire is surrounded on all sides by solder and yet there is no contact between them, is more than common.
I prefer to solder the shank. To do this, I clean several points on it and lightly tin it.

Using flux I tin the inside of the antenna tube.

Then I heat the shank with a finger and insert it inside the tube. The connection is more than reliable.

I already wrote about repairing antennas once; I was talking about restoring the tip of the antenna. But there are worse cases, when there is nothing to hook this tip to, that is, entire antenna links are missing. In fact, they may say that there is another problem: why repair the antenna when you can buy a new one and install it instead of the defective one.
Well, first of all, try to find these antennas first, I haven’t seen them on sale at all lately.
Secondly, if you find it, then most likely it will be a Chinese remake with thin-walled tubes, which are a couple of trifles to break, pulled out and pushed in incorrectly, and it breaks.
Thirdly, even if you buy an antenna, it will be fastest with short links, but many old radios were equipped with antennas with very long links. Of course, you can move the short links apart, but if you think like this, then you can allow the installation of half of the TV horns or even screw the wire in altogether. But I prefer to have an antenna as close as possible to the original one.
Well, I got it for repairs Sanyo, it originally had a long three-link antenna, the third, thinnest link was broken off right under the spine, and the spine itself was hidden in the depths of the middle link.

In general, the third link should have been extended to this distance, and the second should protrude just a couple of millimeters from the thickest link when folded. But in this case, the antenna will not reach all the way and therefore will dangle.

When I replace a broken antenna with a working one, I don’t throw away the old one. Sometimes she may be needed as a donor.

I selected a tube of suitable diameter, which will serve as the third link in the repaired antenna. However, despite the fact that the tube fits perfectly into the antenna from the outside, there is no way to install it in the antenna so that it does not pop out later when unfolded, so you cannot do without completely disassembling the antenna.
To do this, you first need to separate the shank. The best option for this is to saw the tube along the ring farthest from the shank. You won't be able to flare it, don't waste your time.

Unfortunately, after this the thickest link will be 5-6 mm shorter, a sacrifice you will have to accept. There will be a piece of tubing left on the shank that will have to be removed.

The easiest way to clean the shank is with wire cutters, holding it by the flat part with pliers.

The antenna is assembled in the reverse order, starting from the thinnest link. Install brass gaskets so that their protrusions fit into the holes on the sides of the tube.

In general, the task is not difficult, especially for a three-link antenna. There are short multi-link ones, those are more hassle.

Using flux I tin the inside of the antenna tube.

Then I heat the shank with a finger and insert it inside the tube. The connection is more than reliable.

For this we need the antenna itself, a jar with a screw-on lid, and air compressor for aquariums with a hose.
Antennas come in different sizes, so with the antenna you find,
Select drill sizes individually.

We completely disassemble the antenna and get 3 tubes.

Let's move on to the medium-sized tube. We need to cut about 15 mm from it. This will be the fuel mixture supply valve. Using a file, we correct the cuts on both sides and, stepping back from the edge 5 mm, drill a 3 mm hole.

Having drilled a hole in the tube, insert a 120 mm nail into it. This will be the second part of the faucet. It needs to be cut 4 mm longer than the tube and a hole drilled in it with a 2 mm drill, at the same level as the hole on the tube.

After this, apply solder to the walls of the hole in the large tube and insert the small tube. We make sure that the holes match and solder them.

Now you need to make a stopper for the nail. We cut a 4 mm piece from the same middle tube and solder it to the protruding end of the nail.

Having bent the tube, we move to the nozzle. I decided to make it from a needle for inflating swords. Having cut off the head of the needle, solder it to the tube in the position as in the photo.

We apply it to a large tube and mark the place for the hole where
the nozzle will go in.

The burner nozzle should protrude 2 mm from the large tube.

Having inserted the nozzle into the large tube and cut off the excess from the nozzle tube, with reverse side tap, mark the place for the second hole. Having made a hole, we return to the nozzle. In the place where the nozzle comes out of the large tube, use a triangular file to make 6 corner cuts. It should look like a crown. Then we bend the petals of the crown inward.

We insert the nozzle into the hole and solder both sides.

For the burner head, a head 4.5 mm from the ratchet key fit perfectly. Cut off 5 mm from the working part and drill with a 5 mm drill. Then insert the nozzle into the head.

All that remains is to make the tank. In the lid we drill 2 holes 4 mm under
middle tube.
We insert the tube into the hole and leave a distance of about a centimeter between the bottom of the jar and the tube. And having retreated 2 centimeters from the lid, cut it off. The second tube should be short, about 2.5 cm.
Having inserted both tubes into the lid, solder them.

And we connect all the parts with a hose.

We connect the long tube to the compressor and the short one to the burner.
Pour in about 20 ml of gasoline and set it on fire.

The video shows a detailed process of making the burner. As well as testing the melting silver burner.