Install a voltage stabilizer in the house. How to connect a voltage stabilizer to the network

The voltage stabilizer is a special device, the main function of which is to provide the devices connected to it with a nominal 220 V. An external mains voltage is supplied to the input of the device, and the necessary 220 Volts are removed at the output. If your lamps “barely shine” in the evenings, and the computer turns off spontaneously, then the reason for this is a low voltage in the network. This problem is easily solved by installing a stabilizer.

How to choose a voltage stabilizer for your home?

In the private sector, poles are always installed along the roadsides, on which wires are placed. It is through them that voltage is supplied to the houses. If you walk along the line to its beginning, you can find a camera with a special device - a transformer. It transforms input high voltage(usually 6 or 10 kV) at ... no, not at 220, but at 240-245 Volts, which is then distributed to consumers through wires on poles. Where, then, do residents of private houses have a problem with voltage and have to read how to choose a stabilizer? Everything is “guilty” of the laws in accordance with which electric current is distributed. Here we will not consider them, but to simplify understanding, we will use the analogy with a water supply system.

Water ... conductor

Imagine that electric current is a stream of water, wires on poles are pipes, a transformer is a source. Each house (let there be three of them) has its own pipe from the central pipeline. Obviously, the pressure created by the source will come to the most distant house unchanged only in two cases:
- in the first two houses, all the taps are closed, and they do not consume anything;
- the amount of water in the central line is so large that its intake by the first two consumers does not turn the flow into a trickle.
From this follows the only conclusion: the system will function ideally if the performance of the source exceeds the total consumption of all three houses (taking into account losses). In practice, the first houses take so much water from the central line that the latter do not leave a trace of the initial pressure.

In order to fix this problem, you can use several solutions:

• increase the source pressure;
• reduce the consumption of the first two houses;
• replace the source with a more productive one or install an additional one.

The first option means a significant excess of the permissible pressure values ​​​​for the first consumers in the line and damage to their equipment. The second reduces the level of comfort of residents, who, in fact, will be forbidden to use some of the household appliances. The third is associated with serious financial costs for the replacement of the source and the modernization of pipelines.

From simple to complex

Now let's translate all of the above into "electric language". Now every house has powerful electrical appliances - irons, air conditioners, washing machines, boilers. Accordingly, each house now has a much larger current than at the time of calculation and installation of the entire distribution system. We wonder why there are voltage problems and a stabilizer is needed. Very simple! No one changed the wires on the poles and the transformers installed back in the days of our grandfathers, when the total load of an average private house rarely exceeded 1 kilowatt.

As a result, it turns out that most of the power of the transformer is consumed by the houses closest to it along the line, and the latter get crumbs. Since the owner companies rarely change equipment, electricians make a compromise - they set the transformer to output 240 V (220 + 10%), so the voltage is too high in nearby houses, and an additional “bonus” of 20 V appears in the latter. However, these are not problems solves - by the end of the line, the voltage often drops to 150 V.

At elevated levels, incandescent lamps can burn out, elements in the instrument circuits may overheat. Although a value of 240 V is acceptable, it is not recommended to use this mode all the time. In turn, at low voltage, the protection circuits of some electronic devices block the inclusion: computers and TVs do not work, electric motors heat up, the light output of incandescent lamps is significantly reduced, etc.
There is a solution - a voltage stabilizer.

it automatic device, which creates a stable 220 volts in the home electrical network. The internal circuit switches the transformer windings in such a way that the supplied undervoltage or overvoltage is converted to the required 220 V. The lower and upper limits in which operation is permissible are indicated in the specification for the device.

Preparing to Buy a Voltage Stabilizer

Before heading to the store for a purchase, you should decide on three points:

• how exactly the stabilizer will be used: to power the whole house or a specific electrical appliance (for example, a heating boiler);
• what is the voltage value in the home electrical network (you should know the upper and lower limits);
• what is extracted from family budget purchase amount.

Next, we will consider the option with a voltage stabilizer connected to the whole house. This is a more versatile and popular solution, although more expensive than low-power modifications designed to power individual devices.

Voltage stabilizer power

First of all, you need to determine the power consumed by household electrical appliances. There are many calculation tips on the Internet, but I recommend using the following method. On the input board (usually next to the meter) is the main circuit breaker. Its current rating is selected in such a way as to protect the wiring from damage due to overload. And since it works and does not “knock out”, it means that the transmitted power is enough for the house. It remains only to find her. Power is equal to the product of current and voltage values. The latter is known - 220 Volts, and the current can be read on the switch plate. For example, if the “machine” has a rated current of 16 A, then the allowable power will be 16 * 220 \u003d 3520 W or 3.5 kW. For 25 amps, the power is higher - already 5.5 kW, etc. Of course, if the machine was selected “as long as it doesn’t knock out”, then you will have to calculate the required power through the passport data of electrical appliances. The resulting power should be 30% (or even 50%) less than the chosen stabilizer. This is because although the device raises the voltage when it is lowered, the output power drops. You also need to choose not by full power (VA), but by active (W) - this is important point.

Types of Voltage Stabilizers

There are always several such devices on store shelves. Although their functions are the same, the principle of operation is different. For the needs of the power supply of the whole house, two modifications are suitable - servo-driven and based on a classic transformer - a relay type.

Servo. Let's remember school physics lessons, especially practical exercises. Remember the little metal cylinder with the handle on top called LATR? Voltage was applied to one of its two terminals, and the other two were removed. Turning the knob causes the metal current collector connected to it to change the number of winding turns involved, adjusting the voltage accordingly.

The same principle uses a servo stabilizer. A special comparison circuit controls a small electric motor that moves the current collector. The voltage decreased - rotation in one direction, increased - in the other. The required output is 220 V. The advantage of devices with a similar principle of operation is smooth adjustment, without jumps during switching, which cannot be avoided in relay and electronic modifications.

Relay. But the relay-type stabilizer works on a different principle. A transformer with a plurality of intermediate winding leads is placed inside the case. Each pin has its own voltage (the input is multiplied by a factor). Special logic diagram controls the block electromechanical relays, which switch the outputs so that the output of the device is 220 V. That's how simple it is.

There are also expensive electronic key stabilizers on the market. The loud name hides the same relay model, but instead of relays, semiconductor switches (for example, thyristors) are used.

Which voltage stabilizer is better to choose?

There is no definite answer to this question. The most technologically advanced are electronic. They do not have wear parts, so the theoretical service life is higher. Additionally, it is worth noting the complete silence during switching. But the cost is unreasonably high.
Relays are more durable than servos, but click when switched. Optimal in terms of "price / functionality".
Servo stabilizers can be recommended for installation in those houses where the input voltage, having changed, relative to for a long time keeps at the same level (electric welding is the main "enemy" of devices of this type).

Number of voltage stabilizer stages

This is one of the characteristics of relay and electronic stabilizers. The more steps, the less pronounced the switching. Take, for example, a device with one stage. As long as the input is 220 V, everything is fine, the stabilizer passes the voltage without changes. But then it started to fall. It reaches the limit of switching on the relay (for example, 200 V) - the circuit is triggered and the output is again 220. But it falls further: 190, 180, 170, 160 ... Accordingly, the output also decreases - 210, 200, 190, 180 ... Raise it impossible, since the stage has worked, but there are no more others. If there are many steps, then up to a certain point, the fall and rise are compensated.

Benefits of a Voltage Stabilizer

Modern stabilizers not only control voltage, but also perform some other functions. The ability to turn on the voltage supply delay has become almost a standard. Highly useful feature, it is recommended to use.
Network status monitoring with built-in voltmeters. The owner is always aware of what is happening with the power grid. In this regard, models with electronic devices look interesting, rather than arrow ones.
Additional protection against overvoltages from the outside and short circuits in the connected network.

Voltage stabilizer connection diagram for one consumer

Connection diagram of the stabilizer in a single-phase network for the whole house

The above diagram without the use of grounding. Pay attention to the stabilizer with one input zero terminal. If the stabilizer has two inputs and two outputs, then the circuit will be somewhat different, that is, in the switchboard we install an additional zero bus, we connect the neutral conductor (outgoing) to it, and then we connect the neutral conductors of consumers to it.

Connection diagram of the stabilizer in a three-phase network

24.09.2015

A voltage stabilizer, as you know, is a special electrical equipment designed to improve the quality of power supply, so a properly selected device (taking into account all parameters, loads, etc.) is a guarantee of the safe operation of your equipment. However, the right choice this device is not the only condition for the stable operation of all available devices, it still needs to be properly connected so that all connected equipment is reliably protected from surges, drawdowns, interference and other emergencies in the network. The purpose of this article is to help the user install and connect the voltage stabilizer on their own, so here they will give the necessary tips and recommendations necessary for installation.

Procedure for connecting the stabilizer

At the very beginning, I would like to note that connecting equipment such as a voltage stabilizer to the electrical network is not difficult - this is a fairly simple procedure, but it requires minimal experience in electrical work from the person performing these works. There are a few simple but mandatory steps that must be followed for a correct and secure connection. this equipment. Before connecting, you need to do the following:

• Choose the most suitable place for fastening (if the unit is mounted), or placing it on the floor (floor type). The installation of the stabilizer must be done after the electricity meter. You don’t have to worry much about the additional electricity costs of this device, since their own power consumption often ranges from 20-30 W (depending on the model), which is several times less compared to a standard incandescent lamp. Another reason why it is not recommended to install a voltage stabilizer in front of the meter is possible trouble with the energy supervision service employees.

• Most stabilizers, especially floor (portable and shelf) stabilizers, have a so-called terminal block or terminal block. It consists of four terminals designed for connecting wires: two input terminals (phase and earth) coming from the switchboard and two output terminals (also phase and earth) to which the load is connected.

• Next, measure the input and output voltage. If these values ​​are within acceptable limits (indicated in the passport for the device), then you can start connecting the load.
• By the same principle, we connect the load circuit to the corresponding output terminals of the voltage stabilizer (phase to phase, ground to ground).

Remember that checking the reliability of the connection of the voltage stabilizer must be done at least once a year. If at the same time poor contact is detected, measures should be taken immediately to improve it (fix it more rigidly) in order to avoid ignition of the insulation and the occurrence of a fire.

Installation of household single-phase voltage stabilizers

There are two most common options for connecting single-phase stabilizers. The first scheme (Figure 1) implies the inclusion of the device in the load circuit in such a way that a stabilized voltage will be supplied to the input of all connected consumers. However, it must be taken into account that given type connection involves large financial costs from the consumer, since in this case a more powerful voltage regulator is required, which is necessary to power all the equipment available in the house.

Figure 1 - Scheme of installation of a single-phase voltage stabilizer to protect all electrical consumers

As noted above, this is not the only scheme for connecting stabilization equipment. It can be installed on a specific, most important part of the load. This approach is justified in several cases:

• when you do not want to overpay for a more powerful and expensive stabilizer model, but want to power only a certain group of household appliances from it, and leave individual electrical consumers without protection. To do this, you need to create an electrical line to power the latter bypassing the stabilizer and connect this load to it;
• it became necessary to protect certain equipment from failure, the most sensitive to the stability of the supplied voltage, which requires the creation of a separate power circuit for it, at the beginning of which a stabilizer will be installed, guaranteeing high quality input signal. In this case, the remaining equipment is connected to a common electrical network, in which the voltage is not stabilized.

According to the second scheme (Figure 2), the stabilizer is installed in a phase break immediately after the electricity meter and the introductory circuit breaker located in the switchboard. The neutral wire or ground should be connected to a special connector of the terminal block of the device (some models provide (supply of this cable to the case, thus the stabilizer is grounded). The load most critical to the quality of the supplied voltage is connected to the output terminals of the device, and devices that do not require protection , connect to the phase immediately after the meter (before the stabilizer).Thus, if you connect the specified device according to the second scheme, the stabilized voltage will be supplied only to the most important electrical appliances in your home.

Figure 2 - Installation diagram of a single-phase voltage stabilizer for a separate group of electrical consumers

Installation of a three-phase voltage stabilizer

Connecting an industrial three-phase stabilizer is a slightly more complicated procedure than installing a single-phase device, for the reason that in this case we are dealing not with one phase line, but with three. Thus, before starting the connection, you should perform the same steps as in the previous version, namely:

• checking the introductory machine, the rating of which should be higher in terms of power of the voltage stabilizer to ensure the normal operation of the load circuit;
• de-energizing the mains before starting work.

From the diagram below (Figure 3), it can be seen that with this type of connection, the voltage stabilizer is located between the meter with the switchboard, where the introductory machine is installed and the power consumer circuit. On average, a three-phase stabilizer consumes three times more electricity, respectively, than a single-phase model (within 90 - 150 W). The sequence of actions in this case will be as follows:

• We connect in series three phases and a neutral wire (ground).
• We check the reliability and quality of fixing the cables in the terminal blocks.
• We turn off all available electrical consumers and supply power to the stabilizer.
• We carry out voltage measurements at the input and output terminals of the device.
• If all values ​​are within the normal range (the error does not exceed the passport value), then we connect the load to the device.

Figure 3 - Installation diagram of a three-phase voltage stabilizer

Also remember that three-phase stabilizers (due to their larger capacity and dimensions) emit more heat during operation, so they heat up more. In connection with this fact, these units are in most cases equipped with a forced air cooling system. However, despite this similar equipment, it is strongly recommended to install in spacious rooms with sufficient volume for normal air circulation and cooling.

If any problems occur or the network parameters change, you can correct individual device parameters, adjust the voltage value, adjust the cutoffs to the actual network situation, etc. In addition, most of the stabilizers put on the market today are equipped with a good control system and visual indication, thanks to which you can always determine the appearance of an error in the operation of the device and distinguish which error occurred (by its code), as well as determine that an emergency has occurred in networks.

Conditions for connecting a voltage stabilizer

Installation of this equipment (which is planned to be operated continuously) is allowed only in specially designated and reassigned non-enclosed premises. In no case should this be an attic or some small utility room, or a niche in the wall, or even worse, in a closet. One of the most important conditions here is the presence of dryness and the presence of good natural ventilation. In addition, it is strictly forbidden to install such devices near combustible and flammable objects and chemicals. Thus, you protect yourself from premature failure of the stabilizer due to overheating of the power unit and possible fire.

Adhering to these simple rules and simple points, you can correctly and independently connect the specified equipment. But remember, if you do not have sufficient experience in electrical work, then it is better to entrust the process of connecting such critical equipment as a voltage stabilizer to professionals, therefore, do not hesitate to contact specialists for help. Our qualified staff will be happy to help you with this.

The electricity supplied to our apartments has its own standards. For example, for a 220 volt power supply, the deviation should not exceed 10% of the nominal value. Such a run-up in the magnitude of the voltage does not always have a beneficial effect on the functioning of sensitive household electrical devices, lighting devices. Electricity supply companies use transformers for power lines that carry electricity to homes.

When operating under load, the line produces a lower voltage limit. With a further increase in load, the regulatory limit is reduced, as the power of the substation is exhausted. The 380 V network also functions. This explains the mode of operation of the installations under normal conditions. In reality, the supply of electricity to houses in winter is much worse.

This situation can be corrected by using devices that stabilize the main parameters of the electric current. Stabilizers are used in different places. The cost of such a device is small, and its installation and connection is quite simple, and allows you to do all the work yourself.

Determining the type of protection

Currently, there are stationary devices that stabilize the voltage, the installation of which is carried out throughout the house, as well as portable models that can serve only a few electrical devices. In addition, stationary stabilizers are single-phase. It depends on the conditions of use. Connections to a 1-phase and 3-phase network have their own differences.

In an apartment or your own house, it is better to connect a 1-phase stabilizer near the switchboard. This makes it possible to protect the entire network from the effects of congestion. Therefore, consider the installation instructions for a 1-phase device.

Choice of mounting location

In case of self-installation, all responsibility lies with you, since if the installation is incorrect, the device may fail, a fire may occur, etc.

To connect a voltage stabilizer in an apartment with your own hands, you need to consider some tips:

• The room is chosen dry, ventilated, since the main cause of the malfunction is the presence of moisture in the device case.
• When installing in a niche, check how safe the finishing materials are for combustibility.
• It is necessary to provide a gap between the walls and the stabilizer. It is necessary to retreat 10 cm.
• When wall mounting, make sure the mount can support the weight of the wall stabilizer.

Network connection

Independent connection to the stabilizer network is not very difficult. On the back of the device there is a block with terminals for five connectors. Most often, the wires alternate like this: phase and zero, grounding, load phase and zero.

To connect, you just need to make the right choice of cable section. Next is self-assembly. 220 volt stabilizer connection diagram:

Types of stabilizers

When you decide to install a stabilizer, you must. In order not to get confused with the choice of the optimal version of the device, you need to know that all devices perform similar function, but they differ in the principle of action. To obtain high-quality energy for the home, 2 types of devices are suitable:

A servo device that has a comparison circuit to control a small motor. It rotates in different directions, and moves the slider, which removes the current. As a result, a stable voltage value of 220 volts is obtained at the output. The advantage of such a device is smooth regulation. This makes it possible to obtain voltage without drops.

The relay version of the stabilization device has its own differences in the principle of operation. The device housing contains a transformer with terminals. The input voltage is multiplied by a factor and applied to each pin. Electronic elements control the operation of the relay unit, which switches the transformer outputs if necessary. Due to this, a voltage of 220 volts is obtained at the output of the stabilizer. The negative factor of such devices is the appearance of small voltage surges when the steps are switched.

The third type of stabilizer is electronic device. It belongs to expensive devices, although its principle of operation is not much different from a relay device. It works instead of a relay electronic key, switching the outputs of the transformer, on thyristors.

stabilizer stages

All variants of stabilizers have several stages of operation. The quality of the output voltage depends on their number. To understand how the steps work, consider an example. When a voltage of 220 volts of normal value is applied, the device drives it through the circuit without changes. When the voltage drops to the limit values, the electronic key or relay connects the 1st stage, and a stable voltage of 220 volts appears at the output.

The subsequent voltage drop forces the regulator to switch to other stages that will allow it to deliver the required 220 volts. When there are not enough steps, the stabilizer will not be able to increase the voltage. The greater the number of steps, the wider its voltage adjustment interval.

Tips for connecting a voltage stabilizer:

1. Before installation, always turn off the mains supply in the electrical panel.
2. Connect the auxiliary protection of the device in the form of a circuit breaker and a residual current device. This prolongs its life. It is advisable to mount automation behind the meter, but before protection.
3. The household electrical network must have a ground loop. Installation of the stabilizer without grounding is prohibited according to the electrical safety rules.
4. Installation of a stabilizing device in the house before the meter is prohibited. The best option for installing a stabilizer would be to perform it according to the above scheme.
5. It is forbidden to connect the stabilizer immediately after bringing it from frost into the apartment. Condensation accumulates inside the case, which can severely damage the device when turned on, and shorten its service life. Its installation on the street is also prohibited.
6. A small power stabilizer up to 5 kilowatts is connected directly to the outlet. This method is acceptable for garage conditions, a country house. Sometimes they install a portable stabilizer separately for digital equipment, for example, on a computer, TV, etc.

For a three-phase network of 380 volts, the stabilizer is connected to each phase by one device, connecting them with a “star” circuit. In this way, money is saved on the purchase of devices, as well as on its maintenance and repair, since a 3-phase device is much more expensive.

• After installation, you need to check the correctness of the connections and installation. To do this, connect the input machines in the switchboard. Crackling, buzzing, sparking are not allowed. If there are no such signs, then the voltage regulator is connected correctly.
• It is not allowed to connect the stabilizer to a load exceeding the power of the device. Its power reserve must be at least 30%.
• The correct installation diagram is most often depicted on the device case. First you need to focus on this scheme. If there is no such scheme, then the best option are these recommendations. Popular models of stabilizers are connected in this way.

Every year it is necessary to check the reliability of the wiring connections in the terminal blocks, if necessary, tighten them.

An example of connecting a stabilizer

Home counter, after it two machines.

The top switch turns off the phase, the other - zero. One wire goes to the house, and the other to the summer kitchen.

Wiring diagrams

Opening the terminal cover of the stabilizer:

We connect the stabilizer according to the diagram.

The stabilizer is behind the wall, so there is a hole through which four wires pass: the phase for the stabilizer, zero for it, zero for the apartment, the phase is also in the apartment.

Once again, we check the correctness of the connections and turn on the power.

The display shows the output voltage and current.

Schemes of 3-phase loads through 1-phase stabilizers

Household devices consume less energy than industrial designs. Therefore, for normal network properties, three voltage stabilizers of equal characteristics can be used, which correspond to the load for a 1-phase line.

If they use zero separation, then the following scheme is suitable for their installation:

According to this diagram, for clarity, the PE protection wire bus is not indicated, and the connection of stabilizers to it is simplified.

The working neutral wire after the protections located in the switchboard of the house is divided into the output terminals of each stabilizer. Its bus is created by connecting the output terminals of all three devices in parallel. Zeros to all loads are suitable for conductors of wires from this bus.

The phase terminal, which is included in each stabilizer, is connected to its terminals of the protective device, the output terminal with a group of machines that supply power to consumers.

If you combine working outgoing and incoming zeros, then this makes the circuit simpler. But for some models, this method violates some control algorithms in the event of an accident. Therefore, manufacturers make such a separation.

The diagram shows the connection of similar stabilizers to 3-phase loads.

All circuits are shown to get acquainted with the principle of operation of voltage stabilizers. Therefore, the diagram does not show switching devices, junction boxes and other devices.

In general, installing a voltage stabilizer does not require any special efforts. If it belongs to the socket group, that is, to a more simplified class, then it is enough to connect the main input network to the stabilizer, and then turn on the sockets of the protected devices. You just need to strictly follow the connection rules.

Steps for connecting a voltage stabilizer

1. Choosing a place to install the stabilizer.

The device must have sufficient space for fresh air to cool it. If a special niche or cabinet is prepared for the stabilizer, then they must be provided with effective ventilation. In addition, a gap of at least 10 cm must remain between the body and the walls of the unit.

2. Installation in the network immediately after the electricity meter.

On average, all models of stabilizing devices, even with round-the-clock operation, do not consume more than 30 kW of electricity per month. Connecting network wires is not difficult, because. the device has the corresponding terminals to which zero or phase is connected.

It's important to know! When connecting to the mains, be sure to turn off the voltage!

3. Load connection.

For which, either a socket group in finished modules, or output terminals are provided. In this case, it is important to observe the sequence of connecting the phase and zero, so that general system functioned normally. If this did not happen after activation, then turn off the power again and repeat the entire connection procedure from the beginning, but already changing the wires on the terminals in places.

Rules for installing a stabilizer

• It is not recommended to install the stabilizing device in unheated rooms with high humidity. This will oxidize the terminals and loosen the contacts.
• Do not place flammable or chemically active substances in dangerous proximity to the device.
• It is also recommended to ground the body of the stabilizer and restrict access to it by children.
• Use wiring that is adequately sized to handle the specified current rating.

Scheme of connection to the power supply line at 220V

Such a scheme is the most simple and is most often used to protect individual devices or a group of several consumers. Most low-power and medium-power voltage stabilizers have three contacts, through which the protective device is connected to the break in the wires of the main network. Each wire has its own terminal, which is obvious in the presented diagram. The principle of operation of the stabilizing device in this case is to monitor changes in the main network, and in the event of an emergency, it interrupts the power.

Scheme of connection to the power supply line at 380V

In the case of using three-phase loads, an appropriate stabilizer is selected, which can be a complete unit or a more convenient model, as shown in the diagram of a modular unit. Each of the modules is a single-phase stabilizer, combined in common network through automatic control. The zero bus in this case is connected inextricably, and the phase wires are connected according to the principle of connecting a single-phase stabilizer.

Advantages:

• it is more economically feasible to purchase one (albeit modular) three-phase voltage regulator than several single-phase analogues;
• additional convenience in operation lies in the ability to turn off only one or one of the consumer groups, while maintaining the operability of the rest.

It's important to know! When connecting single-phase consumers to a three-phase voltage stabilizer, which has a modular design, it is important to observe an even distribution of the load. If the slightest flaw is allowed, a dangerous “phase imbalance” can occur, which can cause a short circuit and failure of electrical equipment.

One of the reasons why household appliances and electrical appliances fail prematurely is sudden voltage drops in the electrical network.

To prevent these undesirable situations, stabilizers are used - protective devices that allow you to protect household and industrial equipment from interference and voltage distortion.

Protection provided electronic circuit, tracking the value of the input voltage, which turns off the load when it goes beyond allowable limits. The load is connected when the values ​​of the network parameters return to acceptable limits.

Scheme of connecting a voltage stabilizer to a 220 V network

Connecting a Voltage Stabilizer produced with a de-energized network. This is a basic safety requirement. To perform it, the introductory machine located in the switch cabinet is turned off, after which it is necessary to finally make sure that there is no voltage using a pointer.

In most cases, the stabilizer is turned on immediately after the meter, at the entrance to the room, before the load. The type of connection is sequential, in a phase wire break. Quite often, manufacturers of electronic products designate a block diagram of the stabilizer on the surface of the case.

The voltage regulator has, as a rule, three contacts for connection:

• - phase - "input";
• - phase - "exit";
• - zero.

The phase wire from the introductory machine is connected to the "input" of the stabilizer. Then the phase wire of the load is connected to the "output". The neutral wire of the network is connected to the zero contact of the stabilizer without a break.

To connect the neutral wire, you must first connect it to the stabilizer, and then to the common neutral wire of the network (using terminal connectors (blocks) or ordinary twisting).

What to do if there are four contacts on the stabilizer body for connection?

In some cases voltage regulator circuit designed in such a way that not three, but four contacts are used to connect it to the network:

• - phase - "input";
• - zero - "input";
• - phase - "exit";
• - zero - "exit".

In this case, the voltage stabilizer circuit, according to which it is connected to the network, is performed as follows: the phase and neutral wires from the introductory machine (electric panel) are connected to the corresponding "input" contacts on the protective device, and the phase and neutral wires of the load are connected to the "output" contacts ".

After installation, carefully check the correct connection of the wires. Before turning on the device for the first time (applying voltage to the input), it is necessary to disconnect all the load from its output (lighting, unplug electrical appliances from sockets, etc.).

Turning on the stabilizer, you need to check its operation, it should work stably and normally without extraneous noise, crackles, etc.

For reliable operation, it is recommended to carry out the following annual preventive procedure - tightening screw and bolt connections. Also, this measure will prevent the possibility of fire or damage to the insulation, the cause of which may be a poorly tightened or unreliable contact.

Some low power voltage regulators (P<1,5 кВт) выпускаются в виде законченного блока, укомплектованного сетевым шнуром со стандартной вилкой на конце. На корпусе устройства расположено несколько розеток.

The device that needs to be protected is connected to the stabilizer through such an outlet. Thus, these protective devices are a transitional element between the electrical network and the load, ensuring the protection of the load from abnormal voltage.

Scheme of connecting a voltage stabilizer to a 380 V network

Often in private homes a three-phase power system (380 V) is used. With a three-phase network, they try to distribute the load evenly over all three phases.

To protect electrical appliances in such a network, there are two options for installing protection devices: install one three-phase stabilizer or install three single-phase ones.

The first installation option is necessary only if three-phase consumers (electric motors) are used in the house. For such electrical appliances, it is necessary to install only three-phase voltage stabilizers.

However, three-phase power supplies are rarely used (or not used at all). Therefore, if all consumers are single-phase (220 V), then in this case, for protection, it would be better to install three single-phase voltage stabilizers.

This installation method has a number of advantages: firstly, one three-phase stabilizer is more expensive than three single-phase ones, and secondly, if one of them fails (or the voltage is lost on one of the three phases), the other two will work, while three-phase will completely de-energize the home.

Where to install a voltage stabilizer

Requires special responsibility installation of a stabilizer inside the apartment. The difficulty arises due to the limited space in the apartment.

It is recommended to use utility rooms for installing the stabilizer - storage rooms, utility rooms, vestibule, etc. When choosing a place for installing the stabilizer, the main condition is to ensure high-quality and reliable ventilation of the device.

Special requirements apply to its installation in a niche. From the sides, the distance between the walls of the device and the niche should not be less than 10 cm. others

Scheme for connecting three single-phase voltage stabilizers with four contacts

At the request of comment No. 5, a diagram is presented of how three single-phase stabilizers are assembled into a three-phase group with four contacts.